March, 2007

Michelle was chosen as the most likely to succeed as the seal team member for the operation. My brother Butch, at 71, did not want to leap from the boat as we made a high speed approach, and I was worried about the big hawk-like bill taking a chunk out of me, so Michelle with her 95 pounds of power, and Kevlar gloves, was given the honors. She would stand on the side of the panga, near the back and as we made a high speed approach passing close behind, she would leap from the boat and try to grab him before he could submerge. She was a little hesitant since this was new for us, but we told her to just grab the back legs as soon as she hit the water and keep the hawk like mouth pointed away from her body parts. It worked fantastic the very first time. As we came back around in the panga, I jumped in to take a few pictures of her as she tried to control the turtle and hang on. Very quickly she was able to remove the plastic six pack holder and line entangling the turtle and my spunky senorita dive buddy released the freed turtle into the blue. Now more comfortable and appreciative of these unique and ancient creatures, Michelle insisted on checking several others nearby, some much larger, but fortunately they appeared to be free of entanglements.

Butch was back in country for his annual dive trip and we decided to try a new place, about which we had heard mixed reports. Of course this meant that now we had to take time, the day before, to find a working panga to rent and a driver that was responsible and sober. The first day we showed up at 6 AM, as arranged, and had to wait on the beach for over an hour before the driver and helper showed up. These guys are not used to anyone saying anything to them for their irresponsible behavior, but Butch with 30 years experience in the military, lit him up, big time. We already knew that we would not be using this guy again but we figured we could keep him in line for the day even with his now surly attitude. The conditions made it all worthwhile, because with flat seas and clear water, it can’t be anything but a great day. Butch shot his first blue jack, Michelle shot a beautiful pargo achote, and she saw a big pez gallo swim by, but too far to shoot. The top of the bajo was only 35 feet so we went off the edge into the deeper water. It was my turn with the gun and I slowly kicked down into the nothingness. A nice size bohala was a great surprise and I lined up the shot and fired. I was even more surprised as the float, which I had inflated only 90% because of the hot sun, went by me on the way down and just kept going till it went out of sight. WOW. I was very relieved when a minute or two later the buoy popped up, indicating that he had not wrapped up in the rocks on the bottom.

The float will be fully inflated from now on. I successfully landed a beautiful 55 lb Bohala and luckily so, as the commercial divers that we had heard about, showed up a few minutes later. We had been told that there was a group of 8 or 10 local divers that went to the limited high spots in the area and shot everything that moved, to sell commercially, and had essentially cleaned out the fish life. We watched as a diver would shoot a three pound fish, hand the line up to the guy in the boat who would then pull up the fish and hand the diver another loaded gun. They shot every size and type of fish and threw it in the box and then when there were no more fish- they went on to one of the other few places to clean it out. It is very saddening to see that when divers go commercial, they seem to forget that they, themselves are quickly destroying the very thing that they once enjoyed. When we see the fish resources commercially exploited, we sadly know that protected areas are soon to be the only places we can swim with the fish. We now knew the other nearby beautiful places would likely be fished out so we decided to go outside to look for floating logs.

Because of the dry season and the currents in this particular area of Panama, the only floating logs we found were turtles. They were numerous and the only entangled one we saw, is the one Michelle managed to set free. We then had fun checking the close in rocks and decided to head in early to find a new place and arrange for a new boat and driver for the next day.

We went to another river mouth the next morning just a few miles away and found a guy that had been recommended as dependable and knowledgeable. We met his wife and many kids and after he finally chased down a gas line for the boat we were almost ready to go when he said he wanted to take his 200 lb porker daughter. We could see the potential problem when 10 miles offshore she would be bored and want to come home. We mentioned that she would get seasick and that did not work. But, when we mentioned that we would have to be nude in the boat, changing our suits, he decided his daughter should stay home. What a relief.

This time we decided to try farther out and deeper where the commercial guys were not diving. Fortunately we found a fishing boat anchored up near a high spot at 130 feet and with the agreement that we give them a fish if we had any luck, they pointed us in the right direction. The water was clear and beautiful down to about 30 feet-and then for the next 100 feet there was a snowstorm of suspended plankton with 5 foot of vis. We could see the bait zipping in and out of the murk so we knew that there might be fish. Michelle saw the first pargos but they retreated into the murk when approached. On the way up from one of these dives Michelle watched as two bruiser bohala appeared out of the plankton layer below and started up toward her. Too out of breath to wait, Senorita Michelle kicked upwards toward her dive buddy, Senior Butch. She pointed down and handed off the gun as he tipped up and went down. It is always a great feeling to be surprised by the approach of a big fish and to feel yourself trying to keep the adrenalin and excitement under control as you line up the important shot. Not many times in our lives do we get to sight in on a fish so close and so big that you know that you can’t miss-unless you really screw up. Butch concentrated and pulled the trigger-BAM-the gun jumped in his extended arms and the shot was perfect, the point toggled and the monster headed for the bottom like a freight train. Getting tangled in the float line with this fish, you would likely drown in mid water before you could cut yourself free. Fortunately we had on a short 40 foot bungee and a fully inflated buoy that put pressure on the fish before he could get to the bottom. This seems to give us a better chance of not getting cut off in the rocks. Butch started working on the float line, pointed straight down, and after awhile got the fish to the top of the murk layer. We could see it was a big Bohala but also swimming with it was another of equal size. Michelle and I dove down and got within a few feet of the fish as we marveled at their beauty and power. Had we had another gun Michelle would probably have been able to shoot a new women’s record. A proud but tired Butch finally got his hands in the gills and subdued the fish. With the calm seas and the help of the driver and mate, we managed to lift the fish and weigh it accurately. Butch was really stoked with his new personal best--- a 75 pound Bohala. I would venture to guess there are few 71 year old guys shooting fish this size. Right On Dude!

As promised we delivered the Bohala to the fishing boat that showed us the spot. They we surprised but pleased as the fish is worth over $100 to them. The negative of the deal is that now they will probably anchor up on the small structure and fish it night and day with hooks and nets until everything has been cleaned out. It will be a waste of time for us to go back to that place for awhile, but Butch’s one monster fish made the day a successful, enjoyable adventure for the two seniors and one senorita.

A few days of recovery and we made another trip to the cold waters of the Perlas, cold meaning 70-71 degrees. The water was dirty in most places but the conditions were flat and beautiful. Either the chernas (broomtails) had not arrived yet or we were not getting deep enough. We found a great new river mouth where we could anchor outside for the night. At low tide the river mouth was six inches deep and at high tide it was 12-15 feet deep and you could go up river for miles.

We did have one fantastic day out of the four. Near the island of Galera there is a large shallow area, 30-40 feet deep that is surrounded by breaking waves, and many scattered shallow rocks just beneath the surface. Never before have I been able to enter the area diving, partly because of the waves and currents, but mostly because the boat cannot pick you up without hitting a rock. You can’t get to the boat for the currents and the boat can’t get to you because of the risk of sinking the boat.

But this day was a gift from the Gods. There was no wind, no waves, minimal current, clear water to see the rocks, and best of all---- the NOISE! That special noise of a feeding frenzy, as the water is churned up six inches high, in a 50 foot diameter, circle of water by hundreds of fish in an absolute madness. We had no idea what they were but Senior Butch and Senorita Michelle were frantically putting on gloves and fins as they got ready to find out. At the edge of the maelstrom they dropped into the shallow water and within seconds were shouting “Bohala” The main school of feeding fish were hundreds of powerful jurel or jacks of 10-20 lbs, but mixed in and feeding on the same sardine bait were bohala and a few sharks. The frenzy and the noise would turn on for a minute or two, die and start again 50 feet away and repeat again. Butch was first up and selected a beautiful bohala of 40-50 lbs and let fly. BAM. It was a good shot but an inch or two off from that precise spot that usually stones the fish. A big bohala in shallow, rocky water will usually tweak your spear and run through the rocks until the line is entangled and then pull or rip off. That is exactly what happened as Butch watched, but he was at least able to swim down and recover the bent shaft. Then the Senorita showed us how to do it and put a nice bohala in the boat. With enough fish we spent the next couple of hours exploring and enjoying this normally off limits area, before we had to make the run to find safe anchorage for the night.

The unlikely dive team of two seniors, with a combined age of 140 years, and one 95 HP Senorita had worked really well. We had seen many new things for the first time, shot our share of fish, showered in the fading sun, survived on sandwiches, slept tropic nights under the stars in a tiny boat, swam deep into the secret silent seas, survived the many perils always present, and had shared it all with each other. What more could we want? How about flat seas for the long return trip to Panama? YES! YES!

The next morning, as Butch and I stretched out on the floor of the panga we raced over the glassy seas toward Panama with the four stroke purring and with tireless Senorita Michelle at the wheel. A great finish for a great trip for the Two Seniors and One Senorita.

Dix Roper
     March, 2007
     dixroper@earthlink.net